How I Sang with a Group of Strangers in the Middle of the Desert

“How about we sing a song?” asked the bus driver.

Cringe, I thought to myself. But our guide, who was sitting in the front seat, had already started tuning the radio. I turned even further towards the window, so there would be no doubt that this had absolutely nothing to do with me. I fixed my eyes on the view outside and began to study the passing landscape. I even started to frown to prove my concentration. That’s the best way to make yourself disappear, everyone knows that.

As we made our way down into the valley, small bushes and tufts of grass began to appear here and there. And the llamas. It was hard to spot them in the sea of brown and grey rocks, but they were definitely there, watching our coach drive through their desert.

The Atacama Desert is the driest place on the planet. It never rains here; some parts are more dangerous than Death Valley in the US, and yet there is still life. The landscape looks like Mars. In fact, astronomers test all sorts of gadgets here too, but we’re still on Earth, and I have to say I never expected a wasteland to captivate me so much. Volcanoes on the horizon, endless salt flats, and the clearest sky full of stars. This is probably the most beautiful place I’ve seen so far.

In the meantime, the first notes of a Spanish song came on the radio… I didn’t understand a single word, but from the way everyone joined in and started singing loudly and joyfully, I realised it must be some sort of local hit. And then another song, and another… The guide and the driver played one hit after another. “Milééééna!” the guide suddenly called out. “What song do you want to play next?”

My name must have seemed very exotic to him, because every time he said it, he clearly enjoyed it. “Miléééééna, don’t forget your beanie, it’s really cold outside… Miléééééna, stand over there and stretch out your arms. I’ll take a photo of you holding the sun… Miléééééna, are you feeling okay?” I’d bet I was the only person in the whole group whose name he actually remembered.

“I don’t know,” I answered honestly, because I couldn’t think of a single song. My mind was too busy trying not to panic. Buses have never been my favourite thing, and I often have to practice box breathing to calm down and stop feeling sick. And this morning was even more challenging for me, because we had to get up at 3 am to make it from the village to the El Tatio Geysers in time for sunrise.

The El Tatio geysers are the highest geyser field in the world. They are more than 4,000 metres above sea level and are at their most active and beautiful at dawn. Visitors without proper acclimatisation can only stay here for a short while, so it was still morning when we headed back down into the valley. And I survived all of this – no, actually, I enjoyed it – so I’m sure I’ll make it back too, right?

“I know what we’ll play!” the driver smiled, and a moment later, familiar words started coming from the speakers.

“She calls out to the man on the street / 'Sir, can you help me?'”

When Phil Collins wrote his “Another Day in Paradise” in 1989*, he could barely have imagined that, more than 30 years later, a group of strangers would be singing it in the middle of the Chilean desert. The whole bus joined in again. I fixed my gaze on the scenery outside the window.

It was still cold outside, just a little above zero degrees. But by the time we returned to San Pedro, it would be much warmer. Actually, it was already quite comfortable inside the coach. Hmmmmhmmm… I took off my hat and gloves and beanie to admit that considering my legs were shaking from the high altitude just a moment ago, now I was actually feeling pretty good. Hmmmmhmmm hmm hm…

“She can't walk, but she's trying”

Even the coach itself isn't that bad after all, I thought. There's plenty of fresh air, I have water, comfortable seat, the llamas outside the windows, everyone is smiling and... Whoaaaa! I completely forgot to panic! Oh my goodness, how I love this feeling when I forget my worries because something kept my mind busy. In that moment, I realised it was all over. That fear can fade away. From now on, I’ll be fine. I’m done with all this nonsense. Hmmmmhmmm hmm hm hmmmmmmmm hmm hm...

“…it’s another day / For you and me in paradise”

As soon as the last notes of the song faded away, a magnificent view opened up before us, with buffet tables waiting. “Let’s take a break, friends,” announced the driver, and we stopped for a picnic breakfast. We also stopped by a turquoise lagoon where pink flamingos were strolling. Wow! Is there anything more beautiful? Life is beautiful! “Milééééna, at least have a banana!”

I had a banana. And I didn’t want to go back home. I could spend hours, perhaps my whole life, on this coach and travel through this beautiful place forever. And let's listen to another song! How about ‘Crimson Skies’ by The Cinematic Orchestra and Lou Rhodes?

***

Looking back, I have to say that singing on a coach in the middle of the desert was definitely not on my bucket list. Yet this memory will forever be one of my fondest. And every time I hear Phil Collins’ song ‘Another Day in Paradise’, I’m brought back to that moment.

With love, M.

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*Collins, P. (1989). Another day in paradise [Song]. On ...But Seriously. Atlantic Records; Genius. https://genius.com/Phil-collins-another-day-in-paradise-lyrics

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